Charcuterie by Tim Hayward

Author:Tim Hayward [Tim Hayward]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Quadrille
Published: 2022-01-08T00:00:00+00:00

Blood sausage

Blood sausage is probably one of the most challenging charcuterie projects for most people, as obtaining a bucket of blood, keeping it liquid and pouring it into skins in your kitchen is well beyond the comfort zone of a lot of cooks. That said, if you’re untroubled by the fact that it’s blood then homemade black pudding is one of the most rewarding things to make – for the simple reason that most of the commercial stuff is radically over-spiced and loses all its subtlety.

There are places where you can get into a three-month debate on seasonings and a stand-up fight over serving blood pudding. It’s regarded as a national dish in parts of Ireland, Spain, rural France and the North of England… all places where the finer points of culinary debate can be ferociously defended. I tend towards a morcilla style but only because my friend Rachel McCormack, an expert on Catalan food, scares me so much that I follow her advice.

‘Black pepper – and in Asturias a tiny bit of cinnamon. In Extremadura, cumin. In Burgos, onion and pine nuts. In a village in Andalucía, almonds and they also do one with quite a lot of chilli (but won’t give me the bloody recipe). Mallorcans make butifarras and I’ve had them with fennel and also with marjoram, but that’s very, very Mallorcan.’

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